Troubleshooting

If after initial assembly, you are experiencing any of the following common assembly difficulties, try these quick tips;


Bolts will not fit in the holes.

  1. Loosen all bolts and try again.
  2. Using a spanner loosen the screws on the back of the foot board bracket (tank unit bracket) slightly. Remember to tighten later.
  3. If the rails holes and bracket holes are not lining up, it may be possible that the foot board bracket or tank unit bracket is upside down. To fix this, use a spanner to remove and replace the bracket.

Monitor does not come on.

  1. Check batteries are fitted correctly. Batteries may need replacing.

S3 Monitor

  1. Remove the battery pack located behind the top of the footboard underneath the Top Deck. You may need a screwdriver to pry out the battery pack.
  2. Check the connections and wiring are all intact.

If there is no change, please contact your nearest WaterRower office

S4 Monitor

  1. Remove the monitor back plate with a screwdriver.
  2. Check that the plugs are firmly connected.

A1/Indo-Row Monitor

  1. The batteries are positioned behind the monitor; use a Philips screw driver to unscrew the top and bottom screws and gently lift the monitor away from the footboard to access the battery pack. View instructions

If there is no change, go to Advanced Monitor Troubleshooting or please contact your nearest WaterRower office

 


Monitor does not work properly.

S3 Monitor

  1. Check that the dark green rubber band at the top of the clutch is connecting the clutch to the small pulley wheel that sends information to the monitor. If it is not, then by using tweezers, stretch the green band around the small pulley wheel.
  2. Check that the drive belt is not touching the green rubber band or the small pulley wheel.
  3. Check that the plastic wheel that is sitting in the clutch is not rising up. If it is push back in. If this happens again, then remove the top deck panel, take the piece out and replace after spreading a little super glue around it. After replacing the top deck panel remember to replace the green rubber band.
  4. Check and make sure that the tachometer is connected to the computer.

S4 Monitor

  1. Realign the Top Deck – view instructions
  2. Check the sensor disk’s alignment – view instructions, view video
  3. Check the wire connections.
  4. Replace the sensor – view video
  5. Replace the sensor disk – view video
  6. Go to Advanced S4 Monitor Troubleshooting

A1/Indo-Row Monitor

  1. Check the alignment of the sensor, it may have come out of position in the groove underneath the Top Deck and it needs to be gently put back into position.See Sensor Replacement instructions.
  2. Check the connection of the sensor and monitor.
  3. Check the magnets in the sensor disk. If one is missing you will need to replace the magnet. Please contact your nearest WaterRower office for magnet replacements

Monitor has faded numbers.

Faded Numbers

  1. Replace Batteries – 4 AA batteries are housed in the backplate of the monitor.
  2. Check for corrosion on the battery terminals. You will need to replace the backplate assembly. Click here to order

.SAMSUNG


Erratic stroke rate ratings

  1. Please check your rowing technique. There does seem to be a problem with the read out if someone, in the Recovery Position, doesn’t extend beyond the foot board. (If the stroke is short, the S/R rises rapidly) Explain that they should reach for the pulley, towards the front of the rower. This should give a more accurate read out.

S3 Monitor

  1. Check that the tacho or tacho pulley is not hitting anything. If the tacho pauses it indicates the end of the stroke and will hence register a higher than expected stroke rate.
  2. Check the tacho pulley (plastic pulley above the clutch) is not loose, if it is out of position, use a little glue to secure it back into position.

S4 Monitor

  1. The S4 sensor is an optical sensor and on occasion if exposed to a lot of sunlight it can affect the readings on the S4 monitor. Try rowing in a shaded area to see if the readings are more accurate.
  2. Check for dust and broken teeth on the sensor disk

A1/Indo-Row Monitor

  1. Check the alignment of the sensor, it may have come out of position in the groove underneath the Top Deck and it needs to be gently put back into position. See Sensor Replacement instructions
  2. Check the connection of the sensor and monitor.
  3. Check the magnets in the sensor disk. If one is missing you will need to replace the magnet. Please contact your nearest WaterRower office for magnet replacements.

Rower makes noise while rowing

  1. There could be a problem with the green Tacho Belt. Where the Tacho Belt is joined, there may be a lump, this could be causing the problem. It also could be the Tacho Clutch Pulley. There have been problems with nicks in the pulley, causing noises. Ask customer to inspect the area, proceed accordingly.

Seat problems: squeaky/ lumpy seat.

M1, Squeaky/lumpy seat, troubleshooting:

  1. A note about how the seat is meant to work: The guide wheels on the bottom are not meant to stay in contact with the inner part of the rail extrusions (guides/runners). These wheels are there to make sure the seat stays on track, so one side or the other may roll against the side but both left and right wheels should not be against the rails at the same time. If they do there is a spacing issue. The M1 footboard is connected to the rails with bolts and two footboard spacers. We have seen these black plastic bushes been left out during assembly in the past. If these spacers are not between the tabs on the footboard and the rails, the footboard bolts pull the rails too close together in the center of the rail and the seat is pinched when it gets close to the footboard. If guide wheels on both sides touch rails, please confirm that the spacers are there. If the spacers are there, measure distance between the inside edge of rail extrusions. Correct spacing is 290mm (11.4). If this distance is correct along the length of the rail, an out of square seat is probably the issue. Note that guide wheels can come off of their bearings or disintegrate when forced against rail.
  2. If guide wheels are not rubbing and there is still a squeak: If the squeak happens in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. An air patch under the extrusion would cause it to be pressed down by the seat and squeak. If the squeak happens when guide wheel hits inside of rail guide, check that the rubber of the guide wheel is still on the bearing. It may have lifted so it is pinching the lip of the rail guide.
  3. As to Lumpiness in seat: Check for something visible on extrusion surface or load wheels causing lumps. These parts should be kept clean. If lumps happen in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. Rail extrusions are held on by double sided padded tape and are relatively easy to replace. Can lumps be identified to be on one side or the other? If so, rotate the seat and check if the lumps change sides. If lumps also change sides there may be a broken bearing in the load wheels of the seat. If lumps remain on original side, problem is probably with extrusion.

Wooden SII, SIII and SIV models squeaky/lumpy seat, troubleshooting:

  1. A note about how the seat is meant to work: The guide wheels on the bottom are not meant to stay in contact with the inner part of the rail extrusions (guides/runners). These wheels are there to make sure the seat stays on track, so one side or the other may roll against the side but both left and right wheels should not be against the rails at the same time. If they do there is a spacing issue. If footboard or rear spacer is cut too small, the rails will be pulled too close together either at the rear or in the center of the rail. This causes the seat to be pinched when it gets close to the defective part. If guide wheels on both sides touch rails, please measure distance between the inside edge of rail extrusions. Correct spacing is 248mm (9.7). If this distance is correct along the length of the rail, an out of square seat is probably the issue. Note that guide wheels can come off of their bearings or disintegrate when forced against rail.
  2. If guide wheels are not rubbing and there is still a squeak: If the squeak happens in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. An air patch under the extrusion would cause it to be pressed down by the seat and squeak. If the squeak happens when guide wheel hits inside of rail guide, check that the rubber of the guide wheel is still on the bearing. It may have lifted so it is pinching the lip of the rail guide.
  3. As to Lumpiness in seat: Check for something visible on extrusion surface or load wheels causing lumps. These parts should be kept clean. If lumps happen in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. Rail extrusions are held on by adhesive caulking and are difficult to replace. Can lumps be identified to be on one side or the other? If so, rotate the seat and check if the lumps change sides. If lumps also change sides there may be a broken bearing in the load wheels of the seat. If lumps remain on original side, problem is probably with extrusion. Advise replacing rail.

Rubbing tank paddle

  1. Click here to download the rubbing paddle troubleshooting PDF.